Picks of the Trip

Turns out it rains in Manchester. All the time. And it takes 5 minutes to get anywhere. Only it actually takes between 15 and 20 minutes. Today, perhaps, the rain will stop. Fun spot nonetheless.

My picks of the trip (4 stars max);

Wensleydale Creamery ***

A very cool place just on the outskirts of Hawes - actually at the start of the winding road down Langstrothdale into Buckden. Not only the best cheeses, with a room-wide display and sample cubes for all (you could have a meal there), but also a gift pack of Mason’s gin, made in Yorkshire and quite excellent, and Fentiman’s Fever Tree tonic with four different flavours.

Salvi’s Italian restaurant ***

Right in the heart of Manchester, surrounded by ten other restaurants. You go through what looks like an Italian deli with a tiny table for two and a grey haired Italian guy behind the dairy case, down the stairs and into the wonderful smell of great pizzas and pastas. Terrific dinner and the servers were youthful and fun.

Kettlewell’s King’s Head Pub ****

In the very heart of Wharfedale, in the middle of maybe its prettiest town is the King’s Head pub. They say that the English pub is dying (they are closing up left right and centre), but this one offers hope - cooking that could hold its own with the best Toronto has to offer. Not a mis-step on any dish on any of the three nights we ate there. Wonderful.

Buckden Loop ****

It has everything you could ask for in a hike. 8 kilometers of hill, plateau, waterfalls, river walk and tiny villages. Views of Buckden Pike, dramatic Langstrothdale and the sublime top end of Wharfedale.

Hamilton’s Tea Room in Aysgarth **1/2

Surprisingly good food, but an even more surprising owner with a very funny and sharp tongue. When I asked if there was internet, he said, without missing a beat, ‘No, we prefer people talk to each other.’

Yorkshire Dales ***** (yes 5 out of 4)

The star. The Ribble Valley is quite pretty too, but the dales are stunning. More than the sum of their parts, more than any of us expected, they can hold their own with the best sights in the world. Highly recommended.

A few pics of the King’s Head - Alice was the world’s best waitress. Every time we remembered to take a pic of food, we were already eating it.